A truly special antique 9K gold watch chain in the coveted fetter, or trombone link style, complete with a traditional T-bar and ornate shield fob. Ornate antique fobs are difficult to find on their own, so finding a chain still paired with one is rare. This chain can be styled multiple ways as shown in these pictures, with the dog clasp hooking on the alternating coveted cable for a lariat vibe too!
An epic longer length at 22” and almost a total 48g, chain itself is 32.6 g, shield fob is 10.6 g, classic t bar is 4.6 g. This chain is fully solid throughout, with substantial 4mm wide x 33mm long fetter links alternating with 5mm cable links. The traditional T-bar measures 1.5", with an ornate shield fob measuring 2.5" long. Every cable link is individually hallmarked 9ct. The gold is a beautiful, shiny true yellow with a subtle warm undertone, and the chain has recently been professionally repaired, cleaned and restored.
Fetter chains were originally made as functional gentleman’s watch chains, designed to carry a pocket watch across a waistcoat. This distinctive construction is most associated with the late Victorian and Edwardian eras, with this example likely dating around the early 1900’s. The elongated links are articulated and actually move up and down like the slide of a trombone, giving the style its commonly used “trombone chain” name. I can make out on the T bar, hallmark and maker's mark, 9 375 GF&S, which identifies a potential maker: George Fowler & Sons from Birmingham, UK (circa 1880's - 1910s).
This chain spent an extended period of time with several antique specialty jewellers, receiving lots of TLC to bring it back to beautiful, wearable condition. This included several areas of soldering and the replacement of one dog clasp with a modern 9K dog clasp to ensure everything is secure and working properly. With antique chains of this age, repairs and replacement findings are part of their long history, and this one has certainly been well loved.
A final note on the finish: when I acquired this chain, the gold had a particularly rosy and somewhat inconsistent appearance throughout, as it had previously been dipped. Following the repairs, I opted to have it professionally dipped in yellow gold again, bringing the entire piece back to the bright, warm and consistent yellow color you see today. Gold dipping and refinishing is not unusual on antique watch chains, particularly those that have undergone repairs and restoration over their lifetime. I always prefer to disclose restoration work, and in this case I think it has given a very special old chain a beautiful fresh look. As it is worn and loved again, the finish will naturally develop and mature over time.
*Please expect normal wear to all items, as these pieces are vintage and antique.
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